Cologne Christmas Markets

The year before last, we spent a weekend in Vienna for the Christmas markets and really enjoyed it. So at the beginning of this year, we agreed we'd go to the Cologne Christmas markets. This year has gone so quickly, it wasn't long before the first weekend of December, and Laura, Natalie, Jaimee & Damian and I were taking off.

We got straight into it after we arrived on Friday night having a gluwein and potato cake at one of the seven markets, and a few kolsch (beers) at Brauhaus Sunner Im Walfisch. 

Breakfast on Saturday morning was at Salon Schmidt, a cool cafe that Stuart & Kris had stumbled upon the weekend prior. I had delicious pear and raspberry pancakes which set me up for the day. 

Despite the rain, we dove into the markets starting with Rudolfplatz and Stadtgarten in the west. These two are the smallest and quite sweet - the first set by a castle, the second in a park. We were all rugged up and keeping warm with a gluwein at each market but we were grateful when we stopped for lunch at Brauhaus Paffgen (also recommended). It has a large, long dining room with timber wall panelling and timber topped tables, and festive fir wreaths hanging from the ceiling. I had a really tasty bratwurst sausage with sauerkraut, mustard and rye bread washed down with a couple of kolsch. 

11am is not too early for a Gluwein!

Delighting in a simple sausage

Afterwards we went to Neumarkt (an angel theme here), which was the gang's favourite market overall despite being pretty packed. It had fairy lights in all the trees which were so pretty as the afternoon was turning to night, some of the nicer stalls, and an excellent shop with traditional wooden decorations.

Three markets ticked off, we headed back to the hotel and got ready for dinner at Brauhaus Peters, another traditional beer hall. I had veal schnitzel and the family's own brewed kolsch (it's almost rude not to drink the beer in a beer hall!).

Up and at it the next day, we breakfasted on crepes at the nautical themed market next to our hotel, and set along The Rhine. This was my second favourite market. It had great food options, gluwein served from a pirate ship, and fresh fruit dipped in chocolate (is it wrong to have dessert after breakfast?!). 

With three markets left we chose to get the touristy, crowded market next to the Dom (cathedral) out of the way, and spent the afternoon walking through the Altermarkt and Heumarkt. The wild boar bratwurst we had for lunch at the Altermarkt was so flavoursome and delicious. Let me tell you, the Germans know how to make a sausage! So much so, that for dinner before we went out to the airport for the 9pm flight, I had my third bratwurst of the weekend!

This is the amazing wild boar bratwurst. If you see this sign, stop!

Gnomes watching the action from the roof of the stalls

On the bank of The Rhine

It was the loveliest weekend. So long as I am living in the UK, I will make sure I get to Europe each Christmas. Nothing sets off the festive season quite like it!

Epilogue

Unfortunately when I went to board the flight, the attendant told me I had booked a flight for Monday night instead of Sunday night! So while the gang flew back to England, I went back to the hotel and didn't fly back till the next day. I won't make that mistake again!