- Naples -
We arrived in Naples on the Friday night, settled into our hotel and then headed out to explore. Sitting in a piazza we quaffed our first bottle of red for the hols and went to bed in preparation for the adventure that lay ahead.
On Saturday the three of us jumped on the Circumvesuviana train. Helen and I went to Pompeii while Laura went to Mount Vesuvius and Herculaneum and caught up with us later. Pompeii was good. The key is to search out the interesting sites amongst the rubble. And try not to be overwhelmed by it all. We walked the length and breadth of this ancient town and soaked it all up. The parts I liked the best were those which gave me an insight into the daily life of the Roman people. Earlier this year I read Robert Harris' novel, Pompeii, which helped to bring it to life. If you ever go, this is one of those places you definitely need a guide to explore with. And visit the Museum of Naples where many of the artefacts are apparently held.
Me at Pompeii with Mt Vesuvius in the background
A body cast in the forum granary
A Pompeii street
An erotic fresco from the brothel
Helen & a remarkable garden fresco
A marble-topped snack bar - fast food Pompeii style
House of the Cithara Player
The bakery
Laura & Helen taking a break
We spent Saturday night in Naples and had dinner in the Santa Lucia area. I had pizza (Naples is the home of pizza) which was yummy but not as authentic as i'd hoped (read tin mushrooms and shredded ham). Fun all the same.
- Naples & Sorrento -
- Today's gelato: cassata & malaga -
On Sunday morning we walked around the historic Centro Storico area (where we were staying) and up to a fort in town for a view of the city. It was raining all morning but we made the most of our limited time there. Naples seems so derelict but life in the streets certainly has a buzz about it and you get the feeling that there is a lot more to it than the mafia and purse nabbers if you had the inclination to find out.
Naples street
Me with rainy Naples backdrop (and broken umbrella!)
In the afternoon we made our way to the resort town of Sorrento - our first destination along the Amalfi Coast. This place is quite posh (think Noosa) and has its fair share of tourists, some lovely shops, and stunning views across the bay and over to Mt Vesuvius. We found our hotel, changed and headed out for a tipple and plate of pasta.
Sunny Sorrento
Celebrating our arrival with cups of gelati
Hels at drinks overlooking the Bay
- Sorrento & Capri -
- Today's gelati: chocolate -
On Monday morning we took the ferry to Capri which was pretty special. It's wealthier than Sorrento. Every major Italian fashion house has a store here. And quite a lot of very fashionable tourists to shop in them! We had a wander around the island which was really nice, more beautiful views, a memorable lunch (caprese salad, pasta with seafood & cassata), and a quick dip in the sea. I restrained myself and only bought a bottle of Missoni perfume!
Piazza Umberto, Capri
View across the monastery, Capri
A delightful lunch with the girls
A view from the island
Laura & I on the beach (Hels is braving the water)
Dinner was a tasty pizza back in Sorrento and then we went out with some people we had chatted to in the restaurant, to the very Italian 'English Inn' (actually owned and frequented by locals if you can believe it).
- Positano -
- Tues and Wed's gelati: hazelnut and stracciatella -
Having heard about this nail-biting bus ride I couldn't wait to experience the cliff hanging views on the ride from Sorrento to Positano. And it was worth fighting the traffic to see them!
Out the bus window
Positano is built into the cliffs and is a gorgeous town to look at with all of the terracotta, pink and yellow buildings and brightly coloured plants (bougainvillea everywhere). It has a lovely rustic charm and we were fortunate to be early enough in the season to get a feel for local life in amongst the cruise ship-loads of people visiting. Helen's "shabby chic" observation does seem a very appropriate description for the entire coast.
Villa Nettuno, our accomm in Positano
Laura & Helen on the terrace before heading out to dinner
The picturesque Positano
It's gorgeous!
A fun dinner
A couple of great experiences here included another memorable lunch this time in Nocelle - a town which sits above Positano on the mountain side, spending a couple of hours with a family by the beach, taking time out for a pedicure after all of those stairs, hiring a lounge chair at the beach to while a few hours away, and the view from the terrace of our villa.
The view from Trattoria Santa Croce, Nocelle
Lunching at the restaurant with above view from our table
Traffic control in the centre of Positano, and the local commuters waiting for the bus
Positano street scene
Oh so many stairs
The beach where we lounged
Hels on the terrace preparing for dinner
The Positano beachfront by night
- Ravello, Amalfi & Altrani -
- Thurs & Fri's gelato: vanilla in brioche, coconut and cassata -
Our move from Positano to Ravello is now infamous! We took a ferry from Positano to Amalfi, and then caught an overloaded local bus from Amalfi half way up to Ravello at which point it conked out so we all traipsed up the mountain (backpacks included) for 4 kms to get there. Fortunately it was worth it! Ravello is gorgeous and definitely worth going the extra distance to see.
Amalfi street (I had just been on an adventure to buy some stamps at the post office - so much more fun in Italy!)
The ubiquitous vespa, Amalfi
Half way up the mountain we run into another pack horse!
The beautiful piazza in Ravello - my favourite spot
We spent the afternoon exploring the gardens of Villa Cimbrone (where Greta Garbo once spent a summer) which were beautiful (Mum, you would have enjoyed these!), and then - one of the absolute highlights of the trip for me - sat in the main square after the day trippers had gone home, to watch the town come alive with families and friends of all ages chatting and playing. This was the last night we had with Helen who was leaving us early and we dined on yet another feast of pasta.
The entrance to the extensive Villa Cimbrone gardens
(I took a million photos here so I have reduced this account considerably!)
Down the garden path
A gelati break
The garden terrace
Watching the antics in the piazza
Locals in the square
Me in the square
The next day Laura and I headed back down the mountain to explore Amalfi which was once the main town along the coastline until half of it slipped into the sea during an earthquake in the 1343. The cathedral here, which we took a wander through, is supposed to be the most stunning in Southern Italy.
The cathedral in Amalfi
The cloisters of paradise within the cathedral
Amalfi Street
We then followed the road around to Altrani, a neighbouring town, for a last dip in the water and to soak up some sun on its little beach. After lunch we headed back up the mountain to Ravello. And then after dinner we went to a chamber music event at Villa Rufolo. Ravello is well known for its classical concert society so that was quite a treat.
Washing drying in Altrani
Beach in Altrani
I ate the yummiest tomato bruschetta for lunch sitting here in the main square of Altrani
Looking back to Altrani (we left just as the weather turned)
- Sorrento again -
- Today's gelato: melon and hazelnut -
In order to get back to Naples for our flight on Sunday without scrambling back up the coastline we went half the way back on Saturday and had a pit stop here again. We spent a leisurely day having some leather sandals hand made, stocking up on limoncello treats, having lunch, wandering around the town, lazing on our hotel's private beach and then having our final dinner.
Laura & I at dinner on our last night in Italy
We spent Sunday making our way back to Naples and then to London.
My last photo from the trip. The view from our hotel in Sorrento the morning we left.
It was a really lovely break. We moved around quite a bit but it wasn't over the top and it meant we saw everything we really wanted to and could appreciate more of the region. Needless to say, the constant availabilty of gelato meant I would have enjoyed myself regardless so the gorgeous backdrop and good company were definite bonuses.
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