Palermo: the good, the bad, and the ugly (not in that order).

I've just come back from Palermo where I headed for five days in need of sunny and hot R&R which I am pleased to say, I got.

However, I can confidently say that unless you desperately want to strike a pose on the theatre steps where the final scenes of Godfather III were shot, or you're into baroque churches, or you're a budding entrepreneur who wants to start a service collecting dead, and nearly-dead, dogs from footpaths (or set up an RSPCA office) you probably don't need to visit Sicily's capital!


I walked the streets and saw all the sights - the churches, the Norman palace, the crumbling palazzos, the street markets and the 150 year old weeping fig - but, and I'm sorry to say this, there's nothing particularly charming about them.

Especially not if you take into account the dustiness, the piles of rubbish, the stray dogs, the stray men and the unwavering feeling that you could be mugged at any moment!

The view from the roof terrace of my B&B

Teatro Massimo

I can't believe I missed the gelati festival by one day!!

150 year old fig

One of many crumbling palazzos

One of the crazy baroque churches, Chiesa del Gesu

Mercato di Ballaro

Mercato di Ballaro

Palazzo dei Normanni

Palazzo dei Normanni, and the very impressive Cappella Palatina

Cattedrale

Fruit vendor

One of the highlights of the city is it's local beach, Mondello. The lido has plenty of lounges and umbrellas lined up waiting for sunbathers, the sand is white and the water is turquoise. I really enjoyed relaxing here...

Mondello beach

Coconut anyone?

Excellent gelati shop

Gelsi and vanilla

I had some great dishes and wine. The local fish (swordfish and sea bass), chardonnay and gelati are superb. There's a local flavour called gelsi (mulberry) which is delicious. I might add that two scoops in a cup is only 2 euros!! I went to an enoteca (wine bar) that also serves excellent antipasto and pasta.

Arancini, involtini, cannolli!

Antica focaccia di San Francesco

ravioli at Pizzo & Pizzo

Cassata Siciliana and watermelon jelly, specialties of the region, but I'll take gelati any day! 

I was lucky to have found a great B&B with a host who cooked me spaghetti in his kitchen on sunday and gave me lifts all over town; and outdoor terraces with views over Palermo that were ideal to chill out on. Plus it's 2 blocks from a top notch gelateria (I only went there 3 times).

View from the terrace at sunset

Here's how one lovely day of my holiday went...

Under a bright blue sky, on a day that was already heating up, breakfast of coffee, fresh melon and croissant was served on the terrace where I was surrounded by citrus and olive trees, oleanders and views over the city. To be fair, every morning started like this...

I took a short train journey to the nearby beach town of Cefalu. I strolled along the esplanade, and through the hilly streets (charming despite some tourist tat) up to the Duomo (more to my taste than those in Palermo). I was inspired to buy some jewellery from a shop where grandmother, mother and daughter run the show.

For lunch I chose an outdoor table on a side street and ordered a caprese salad, grilled fresh sea bass with salt, lemon and parsley and a semi freddo. Plus a glass of the country's own chardonnay and an espresso.

I spent the afternoon sunning myself on the beach and having a dip in the ocean. Just before I caught the train back, I joined the locals for an afternoon aperatif at the beach bar.

Cefalu

I like to think this man caught my sea bass that morning! 

Duomo

Lunch

Once I freshened up back at 'home' I opted for dessert first (always a good idea!) and had watermelon and stracciatella at the place up the street. Then wandered down the street for a seafood salad and the best pizza in town (according to my B&B host). 

This memorable day ended with a last glass of vino blanco on the roof terrace overlooking the bright lights of the city.

Despite not loving Palermo, I had a really nice break and actually really want to come back and see more of the Sicily. Bring on summer 2013!

Gelati notes:
Saturday - gelsi & pistachio
Sunday - melon & hazelnut
Monday - watermelon & stracciatella
Tuesday - hazelnut & pear
Wednesday - watermelon & stracciatella
Thursday - gelsi & vanilla